The essay aims to investigate the processes that led to the UNESCO recognition of intangible cultural heritages linked to cuisine, food habits, and social and productive practices related to food. The theoretical approach is founded in the reflections included in the three Speeches pronounced by Claude Lévi-Strauss at the United Nations agency in the postwar period on the relationship between the concepts of race, history, and culture, and in the more recent reflections by Luigi M. Lombardi Satriani on the identitarian value of food. The paper analyzes documents such as UNESCO Declarations, the 2003 Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage, the 2005 Faro Convention, as well as the nominations and inscriptions of elements tied to food cultures and practices in the Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity: borscht, baguette, harissa, Italian cuisine, etc... The analysis demonstrates how food heritages are a source of pride for communities and have instead been the object of prejudice by institutions for years, both national and international. Starting from the pioneering recognitions of the “Mediterranean Diet,” “Gastronomic meal of the French,” and “Traditional Mexican cuisine,” dating back to 2010, collective and institutional sensibilities have changed, and led to a relevant increasing activity of promotion of these intangible heritages. Therefore, the aim of this essay is to propose to the anthropological debate a historical-critical reflection and an interpretative genealogy of this phenomenon.

PATRIMONIO CULTURAL ALIMENTARIO: ENTRE EL ORGULLO Y EL PREJUICIO

Elisabetta Moro
2023-01-01

Abstract

The essay aims to investigate the processes that led to the UNESCO recognition of intangible cultural heritages linked to cuisine, food habits, and social and productive practices related to food. The theoretical approach is founded in the reflections included in the three Speeches pronounced by Claude Lévi-Strauss at the United Nations agency in the postwar period on the relationship between the concepts of race, history, and culture, and in the more recent reflections by Luigi M. Lombardi Satriani on the identitarian value of food. The paper analyzes documents such as UNESCO Declarations, the 2003 Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage, the 2005 Faro Convention, as well as the nominations and inscriptions of elements tied to food cultures and practices in the Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity: borscht, baguette, harissa, Italian cuisine, etc... The analysis demonstrates how food heritages are a source of pride for communities and have instead been the object of prejudice by institutions for years, both national and international. Starting from the pioneering recognitions of the “Mediterranean Diet,” “Gastronomic meal of the French,” and “Traditional Mexican cuisine,” dating back to 2010, collective and institutional sensibilities have changed, and led to a relevant increasing activity of promotion of these intangible heritages. Therefore, the aim of this essay is to propose to the anthropological debate a historical-critical reflection and an interpretative genealogy of this phenomenon.
2023
El ensayo pretende analizar los procesos que condujeron al reconocimiento por parte de la UNESCO de los patrimonios culturales inmateriales que giran en torno a la mesa, las costumbres alimentarias y las prácticas sociales y productivas relacionadas con la comida. El enfoque teórico abarca desde las reflexiones contenidas en los tres discursos sobre la relación entre los conceptos de raza, historia y cultura pronunciados por Claude Lévi-Strauss en las Naciones Unidas en la posguerra, hasta las reflexiones más recientes de Luigi M. Lombardi Satriani sobre el valor identitario de los alimentos. En el debate se examinan documentos como las Declaraciones de la UNESCO, la Convención para la Salvaguardia del Patrimonio Cultural Inmaterial de 2003, el Convenio de Faro de 2005, así como las candidaturas e inscripciones de bienes relacionados con culturas y prácticas alimentarias en la Lista Representativa del Patrimonio Cultural Inmaterial de la Humanidad: borscht, baguette, harissa, cocina italiana, etc. El análisis muestra cómo los patrimonios alimentarios son motivo de orgullo para las comunidades y han sido durante mucho tiempo objeto de prejuicios por parte de las instituciones, tanto nacionales como internacionales. Pero desde los reconocimientos pioneros de la “Dieta Mediterránea”, la “Comida Gastronómica de los Franceses” y la “Cocina Tradicional Mexicana”, en 2010, la conciencia colectiva e institucional ha cambiado hasta el punto de que la promoción de estos patrimonios inmateriales está creciendo exponencialmente. El ensayo pretende, por tanto, ofrecer al debate antropológico una reflexión histórico-crítica y una genealogía interpretativa de este fenómeno.
Intangible culturale heritage, UNESCO, food, Lévi-Strauss, Lombardi Satriani, identity.
Patrimonio Cultural Inmaterial, UNESCO, alimentación, Lévi-Strauss, Lombardi Satriani, identidad.
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Utilizza questo identificativo per citare o creare un link a questo documento: https://hdl.handle.net/20.500.12570/35153
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